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Silk Fabric Care: Handwashing Silks
 Some
silks should be dry cleaned (notably Dupioni) but most can
be handwashed, especially if you wash the fabric before sewing. Dry cleaning
gets more expensive every day, and the smell of perc (the dry cleaning fluid)
in our clothes is not our favorite fragrance. And worst of all, silk begins
to look dingy and dull after just a few trips to the dry cleaners. Many
silks look better and last longer when hand washed.
But beware, many inexpensive and poorly woven silks may fade, become
stiff, change texture or lose their sheen when hand washed. Try a test
piece in a series of launderings before spending a lot of time and effort
in any project.
Exceptions
Silk Noil MAY shrink noticeably in handwashing (how much depends
on the weave), and should absolutely be pre-shrunk before being sewn up
to minimize shrinkage in the final garment. Silk Noil may be machine dried,
but this will increase shrinkage and should definitely be done before being
cut and sewn.
Silk Dupioni can be handwashed, and launders beautifully; however,
it changes the texture and sheen of the fabric. Hand wash a small scrap
or swatch and check to see if you like the way it looks. We wash all our
dupioni that is custom dyed, and it has a much softer texture, very different
than the crisp finish it has off the bolt.
Warning!
When hand washing a ready-to-wear silk garment, make a wash test on an inconspicuous
part of the garment, the inside back of a hem, for example. Nothing in this
document should be considered a recommendation or guarantee of success.
Here's how it has worked for us;
Pre shrinking
Silk Crepe, Noil, 2 ply silk and dupioni shrink the most and should be pre-shrunk
before sewing up. Place the silk in a sink or tub full of lukewarm water
and mild soap. We like Ivory Snow (powder), some people swear by Woolite,
some people like Orvus Quilt Soap (available at some Quilt stores as well
as many Equestrian Saddle and Tack shops!) and some even use their favorite
shampoo. Whatever you use, follow the package directions. Rub the silk fabric
for a few minutes in the soapy solution and drain. Rinse in clear, cool
water until all the soap is gone (don't wring, silk becomes weaker
when wet!). Fold the garment flat and roll up in a towel (like a cinnamon
roll) to remove excess water overnight. Remove from the towel and iron dry
with a medium-low setting.
You can dry silk Noil in the dryer, but it shrinks more.
Routine hand washing
Soak the garment in lukewarm water and a mild soap solution (see pre-shrinking,
above). Rinse in clear, cool water until all the soap is gone. then fill
the sink again and add a quarter cup of white vinegar to the final rinse.
Vinegar neutralizes any remaining soap, and allows it to rinse out completely
restoring the fabric's natural sheen, it can make a dramatic difference.
Give the fabric a final rinse in clear, cool water to remove the vinegar
smell. Roll up in a towel to remove moisture, then dry flat on a towel or
on a padded hanger. Iron with a low-medium temp iron while still slightly
damp.
Why Silk shrinks
Silk fiber is a protein, like your hair, and it does not itself shrink.
The way the individual fibers are twisted together when weaving is what
causes silk to shrink. Highly twisted yarns and loose weaves cause shrinking
when water releases twisting energy in the fibers. It's a bit like twisting
a rubber band then reducing the length, seeing it bunch up. Silk bunches
up the same way. Ready to wear silk garments shrink because manufacturers
don't go to the trouble of washing the fabric first. Imagine that.
Copyright ©: 1998-2006, Silk Road, inc.
3910 N. Lamar, Austin, TX, USA 78756
Tel: +1 (512) 302-0844
Fax: +1 (512) 302-0611
Comments? Questions? Write us at: webmistress@srfabrics.com
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